Soon after I arrived in Brazil, I heard that the university I will be attending is on strike. None of the administrative organs are functioning, and thus no one can register for the classes, and the start of the academic year will be delayed. After a long time without knowing what was going to happen it was decided that classes would start three weeks later than planned.
To my delight, the Portuguese course that I am taking as one of my subjects this semester, did start. It meant kind of tied to Belo Horizonte, but not having too much to do. So to create a nice balance for the situation I had found myself in, I decided with some friends to travel to Bahia, a province in the north-east of Brazil.
I have never planned a trip so last minute. We ended up as a group of seven people, and we came together only one day before departure to book the return flight.
For those of you who don’t know, I do capoeira. Which you should know, because if you don’t, it probably means I have never talked to you… For the others, probably a slightly larger percentage of the people who found themselves reading my blog: capoeira originated in the state of Bahia. Now, I was the only one in the group who practices capoeira, so I told myself beforehand that it would not be the focus of the trip; but as it turned out that choice wasn’t entirely up to me. When you are in Bahia, capoeira is more or less shoved in your face.
After a very, very, very long time spent in the bus, we arrived at our first stop, Porto Seguro. Porto Seguro was the first place where the Portuguese arrived, back in the day. The most impressive thing there, was the historical city centre. After climbing many stairs, which looked like they were leading nowhere, we arrived at the tourist attraction of Porto Seguro. Running from one tourist shop to another I saw the many icons which Bahia uses to sell itself to tourists; one of them is the berimbau, the most important musical instrument of capoeira. They were sold in so many random sizes; I don’t know how tourists bring them home with them, but that’s not for me to consider…
In the historical centre I ate Acarajé which is one of the most typical foods from Bahia, which is wonderful. You guys, you are all missing out.
People here love telling you how each part of Brazil has an entirely different culture, and though I wouldn’t say it is entirely different, I do see the differences. For starters the stereotypical things of the states are different. In Minas you won’t find berimbau keychains in souvenir shops, but in Bahia, Pão de quijo, a treat originally from the state of Minas Gerais, isn’t sold everywhere, which is quite sad. But then again, there are people selling tapioca everywhere, which is the new love of my life.
The way people speak is also different. In Bahia it is much easier to understand what people are telling you because they actually say the whole word and they speak much slower.
Porto Seguro
Many stairs…
Porto Seguro, historical centre
Th
me, happy with carajé
Porto Seguro, historical centre
Porto Seguro
Berimbaus
After Porto Seguro we moved to Arreial D’Ajuda. This is another town, which is very close to Porto Seguro. The atmosphere is very charming and village like. And while this was the case in Porto Seguro as well, instead of a fisherman’s village of Porto Seguro, Arreial D’Ajuda felt like a beach village. One of the most notable things in Areial D’Ajuda, was that a worldwide capoeira event was going on the day we were staying there. People were walking around in their Abada (capoeira clothing) in the streets, which was a strange and wonderful thing for me to see. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to participate because we would only stay there for a day.
After the wonderful beaches of Arreial D’Ajuda, we travelled up north, to Morro de São Paulo, a town on an Island without cars, only donkeys and wheelbarrows. We travelled by bus to Valença from where we took a ferry, to arrive at the bus station at four in the morning. There were a few shady taxi drivers trying to convince us to take a cab, but going by our gut, we waited until it got light enough to walk the fifteen minutes it took to get to where we needed to be. At the bus station we met a guy who was on the same bus as we were, carrying several wooden sticks. I talked to him, and as I suspected, the sticks he was carrying were for making berimbaus. He told me that the most important thing about making a berimbau is having the right type of wood. He was on his way to a Quilombo nearby, where his Mestre lived, and like us he was waiting for the sunrise because it was too dangerous to walk there in the dark. I am pretty sure that this scene would make a wonderful capoeira song.
So, after dissing the taxi drivers back at the station, after sunrise we started walking. We had to walk to another point where we would take a bus, which would take us to the ferry that goes to Morro de São Paulo. This town seemed to have many poor neighbourhoods. Especially on the bus we could see the many small, broken down houses outside. This was really different from the touristic areas of Porto Seguro and Arreial D’ajuda, and Morro de São Paulo as well, where we were heading. It was interesting to see the other face of Brazil, that you hear about. You could feel the tension in the air, and so moving on to the next touristy area was probably the best thing that a group of seven foreigners could do.
Morro de São Paulo was very well maintained and full of cute little houses and shops on the main road, which connected the port with the beach and hotel where we were staying.
In Morro, I saw several shops that had Hebrew signs on them which was very amusing. I know that there are a lot of Israeli backpackers in South America, but only once during the whole trip I heard Hebrew spoken in the streets.
At one point, while we were enjoying ourselves at the beach, I saw a man with a berimbau walking around. He was playing berimbau and a few of the people who were selling stuff on the beach went up to him, and so did I. Eventually I ended up playing the berimbau while a few of the sellers were playing capoeira. Another romantic image to cross off my list!
In reality playing capoeira on sand is a most difficult thing, because you either slip through it, lose stability or it keeps you from jumping. That afternoon we went up the hill where the lighthouse was, to zip line, which was an amazing experience. You can see the whole town and three beaches, after which you quickly end up in the water.
Morro de São Paulo
the port of Morro de São Paulo
Morro de São Paulo
Morro de São Paulo
This is a donkey
‘Discount on the 41st of April’, we had to pay….
this is the hill from where we zip lined
Tapioca
Morro de São Paulo
Next on our list was our final destination Salvador, the capital of Bahia. Never in my life have I encountered a city like this. I have heard so much about this city because about every capoeira song is about this place. In the other places in Bahia I had encountered capoeira, but in Salvador, capoeira was in the air. It was one of the main icons for all the tourist stuff. The amounts of berimbaus, pandeiros, magnets, key chains with capoeira symbols and anything else you can think of was unbelievable. Right in the centre of Pelourinho, where we were staying, was a capoeira roda going on the whole day. It was really strange to see capoeira in such a different light. It was a sales item, an icon. But Salvador is also the birthplace and home of capoeira; it is really part of the culture, such a different way to experience it!
This is Salvador. Another thing that is Salvador, is getting off the ferry and straight off seeing a favela on the hill in front of us. When we were in the bus, I checked my phone and a man in the bus warned me that it is better to put it away because people might try and grab it through the window. The famous wish ribbons we got apparently shouted ‘I am a tourist!’ to everyone. And when it got dark and we walked to a café with music, 20 meters away from out hotel in the most touristic and protected place in Salvador, we encountered endless amounts of people begging for money and food.
But then again, during the day people were playing capoeira almost in front of our hotel and I saw so many people walking around in abada’s. Salvador was quite something, an atmosphere that I have never felt anywhere else. It has beautiful and ugly parts and is either way an amazing experience.
I am pretty sure though that I will have to return to Bahia because we’ve only seen a tiny part of the state. But for now I am back in BH with one more week until the university finally does start.
Salvador
Salvador, view from the ferry
Pelourinho
Salvador, Mercado modelo
Endless amounts of berimbaus everywhere
Inappropriate pictures in church
Salvador
Salvador, where the public phones are coconuts and Berimbaus
Salvador, Elevador Lacerda, you had to pay about 15 cents to use it, which in euro would be a bit less then 5 cents
Museu Náutico da Bahia
Museu Náutico da Bahia
Me playing capoeira on the street
Bahia, nossa Bahia
Capital é Salvador
Quem não conhece a capoeira
Não pode dar o seu valor
Capoeira vem da África
Áfricanos quem nos trouxeram
Todos podem aprender
General e também doutor
Quem desejár aprender
Venhá aqui em Salvador
Procure o mestre Pastinhá
Ele é o proféssór